Tufting Terminology: Complete Glossary
This glossary defines essential tufting terms every rug maker should know. From backing fabric to pile height, learn the vocabulary used in tutorials, forums, and product descriptions.
New to tufting? Start with our beginner guide to understand how these terms apply in practice.
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Tools & Equipment
- Tufting Gun
- Electric tool that punches yarn through backing fabric to create loops or cut pile. See best tufting gun guide.
- Cut Pile Gun
- Tufting gun that automatically cuts loops as they're formed, creating a shaggy, plush texture. Also called AK-I or AK-II.
- Loop Pile Gun
- Tufting gun that creates uncut loops, producing a carpet-like texture. Also called AK-III. Faster than cut pile.
- Tufting Frame
- Wooden or metal frame that holds backing fabric taut during tufting. Must be rigid and stable. See frame guide.
- Gripper Strips
- Strips with small teeth (like carpet tack strips) that grip backing fabric on the frame. Essential for maintaining tension.
- Scissors / Trimmer
- Sharp scissors or electric trimmer used to even out pile height and clean edges after tufting.
- Threading Tool
- Small wire tool used to thread yarn through the tufting gun needle. Usually included with gun.
Materials
- Primary Backing / Primary Tufting Cloth
- The main fabric you tuft into. Tightly woven grid that holds yarn loops. See primary cloth guide.
- Monk's Cloth
- Cotton backing fabric with looser weave than primary backing. Softer feel, good for beginners and small projects.
- Secondary Backing
- Fabric glued to the back of finished rug (felt or rubber) to hide adhesive and prevent sliding. See backing guide.
- Tufting Yarn
- Yarn used to create the pile. Must match gun needle size. Wool, acrylic, or blends. See yarn guide.
- Ply
- Number of strands twisted together in yarn. 2-ply = 2 strands, 4-ply = 4 strands. Affects thickness.
- Adhesive / Rug Glue
- Liquid applied to rug back to lock loops in place. Synthetic rubber (Roberts 3095) or latex. Essential for durability.
Techniques & Concepts
- Pile
- The yarn surface of the rug. Can be cut (shaggy) or loop (carpet-like). "Pile side" = front of rug.
- Pile Height
- Length of yarn loops/cut pile, measured in millimeters. Adjustable on most guns (6-25mm typical range).
- Backing Tension
- How tightly fabric is stretched on frame. Must be "drum-tight" (bounces back when pressed) for consistent stitches.
- Gun Angle
- Angle of gun relative to backing fabric. Should be 90° (perpendicular) for best loop formation.
- Stitch Density
- How closely stitches are spaced. Higher density = fuller coverage but uses more yarn. Controlled by tufting speed.
- Outlining
- Tufting the border/edges of a design first, then filling in. Helps maintain clean lines.
- Filling
- Tufting large solid areas after outlining. Usually done in rows or circular patterns.
- Carving / Sculpting
- Trimming pile at different heights to create 3D texture and depth in designs.
Common Problems
- Skipped Stitches
- When gun fails to form loops in some spots, leaving gaps. Usually caused by moving too fast or loose tension.
- Loop Fallout
- Loops pulling out of backing fabric. Caused by loose tension, wrong yarn weight, or poor backing quality.
- Yarn Jamming
- Yarn getting stuck in gun mechanism. Usually from wrong yarn thickness, too much drag, or dirty gun.
- Uneven Pile
- Inconsistent loop heights across rug. Caused by variable gun angle, speed, or pile height setting shifts.
- Sparse Coverage
- Backing visible through pile. Caused by low stitch density, thin yarn, or moving gun too fast.
- Backing Tear / Blowout
- Hole in backing fabric from needle damage. Caused by weak fabric, too much pressure, or tufting same spot repeatedly.
Finishing Terms
- Gluing / Sealing
- Applying adhesive to rug back to lock loops permanently. Must dry 24-48 hours before trimming.
- Trimming / Shearing
- Cutting pile to even height after glue dries. Creates smooth, professional surface.
- Edge Binding
- Fabric strip sewn or glued around rug edges to prevent fraying and create clean finish.
- Backing Cloth
- Secondary fabric (felt or rubber) glued to finished rug back. Hides adhesive and prevents sliding.
- Curing Time
- Time adhesive needs to fully dry and harden. Typically 24-48 hours before rug can be used.